First impressions: Dandong feels like the Myrtle Beach of China, complete with waterfront seafood restaurants and an island with a small amusement park. There are bright neon lights at night, a road and walkway along the river and lots of public spaces. It is in these public spaces where Dandong comes alive. Many groups of people, young and old, gather around: to play jianzi (the Chinese hackey sack), play music, listen to music, people-watch, dance, exercise, swim, fish, catch frogs or just enjoy the night air. Walking along this riverfront drive, one finds it impossible to go more than 100 meters without stopping to watch — something.

North Korea: I saw the Ferris wheel! It looked lonely and out of place (after all, Kim Jong-il just put it there for show and didn’t intend for any North Koreans to actually enjoy it). It wasn’t lit up at night, either, but little of the DPRK was — a stark contrast to Dandong right across the Yalu River. I wonder how the North Koreans I saw through a telescope feel: envious? thankful? confused? curious?

North Koreans: North Koreans are farmers living in sad houses, as best I can tell through a telescope off the Hushan Chang Cheng (Great Wall at Tiger Mountain). I saw some again at the Duan Qiao (OK, the broken bridge), and they were playing (or washing) in the water at a really tiny beach.

North Korea, again: The landscape looks pristine and beautiful. Green mountains in the distance turn into hills that gently roll down into the river. I saw a few bicycles and, today, even a van. The country perhaps has become even more mysterious to me than before I saw it.

The road to Pyongyang: Right beside the Duan Qiao is an intact qiao, a railroad bridge. Yesterday, while we were on the Duan Qiao, a train passed by! It was exciting to see something coming in from North Korea. I couldn’t tell what kind of train it was (as in, which nation operated it), but I did see curious faces of passengers pressed against the windows. What could they have seen on the other side of the bridge? A mysterious, very backward land? Kim Jong-il’s playground? How little I know of North Korea, and here was a whole train (it was like, four cars) of people who knew firsthand…

Speaking of trains: the yinwo (hard sleeper) wasn’t bad at all. I rather liked swinging down from my top bunk, and while there was not much space to sit up, it was pretty comfortable to lie down. I’m pretty sure the 14-hour train ride went by more quickly than the 14-hour flight from JFK to PEK. I just hope the yinzuo (hard seat) won’t be too yin on my bottom.