I’m on a roll! I’ve just had two consecutive mafan-free (no hassle) experiences with the Chinese bureaucracy. The first, yesterday, was at the post office, mailing your postcards. Over the past year, I’ve gone to the post office to mail something, only to be told that I couldn’t mail it or that it was written in the wrong color ink or a dozen other weird excuses. Moreover, it is usually some old surly lady basically barking at me and giving me short shrift. Not yesterday, though! It was a young-ish woman who accepted my postcards, written in pink (formerly unacceptable), and who seemed on the cheerful side of indifference. She even smiled at me when she handed me my change and I said “thank you” and left. Pleasant!

Then today, when I went to my “local” police bureau to register my address (so China knows where I live for tabs-keeping purposes), they didn’t give me any crap for not registering earlier, in the three months since I’ve changed addresses. Furthermore, the last time I was registered was in December, when my residence permit expired. Not registering has been known to result in hefty fines and even deportation. I consider myself quite lucky.

By the way, all foreigners are required to be registered with their “local” police stations. If you’re staying at a hotel, the hotel sends your passport and visa information to them. It sounds a bit scary, but for most people it’s something they wouldn’t think about again. For others, such as al-Jazeera’s Melissa Chan, who are of more interest to local police, it could become a bit troublesome.

The biggest worry about registering at the popo is that it’s just a hassle. Technically, you’re supposed to inform them of your whereabouts within 24 hours of a change. Fines of up to 500 kuai PER DAY can apply. Some people even say that you’re supposed to re-register after returning from an overseas trip, also within 24 hours. This is obviously all very mafan. I mean, what if I return on a weekday? The police stations aren’t open past normal working hours, and I’m not taking time off work just to register. Not to mention, the term “local police station” is a total misnomer. It sounds like it’s close to you and all, but it’s not necessarily. There may even be another police station closer to you that isn’t your “local” one. My local police station is half-an-hour’s walk away, and it’s not on the way to anything, either. Did I mention I got hailed on when I went there on Saturday? It was relatively sunny/smoggy when we left, but 10 minutes later, the weather changed. Then it started dripping, and the next thing I know, I’m being attacked by ice balls falling from the sky. All because I was trying to obey Chinese laws.

But I’m not complaining because I didn’t get fined or deported. All the police lady did was ask me for my passport and my lease, then made me sign my Temporary Household Registration Form. She didn’t smile, like the post office lady did, but in China, this is already a blessing.